Memories and Goodbyes
Blessing of the Horses, San Martin de Terreros, Mexico
Two weeks ago was a celebration of life for our close friend Bob Dempsey who left more friends than I can count on my digits and all hairs on my head. Half a dozen of them spoke about Bob’s rapier wit, adventurous spirit and good works; good works done quietly and performed because they made a difference. Peggy was among those who spoke glowingly of the man.
She described Bob’s adventurous spirit and especially his love of Mexico. He travelled there for six winter weeks every year. Her reflections about him recalled a particular Mexican sojourn we shared near San Miguel de Allende in 2018.
While we did the things visitors do in San Miguel, the highlight Peggy described was attending the Blessing of the Horses with Bob in San Martin de Terreros, a tiny community of 695 that explodes to 70,000 every November 11. It was our second dance with the patron saint of the cowboy. It was his first. He marveled at the spectacle saying it was the most unique thing he’d ever experienced. Us, too.
When we attend the event, we are the only gringos in a sea of Mexicanos. And yet we are welcomed by the campesinos because we are bold enough to join their party. Bob felt the same, perhaps more so. He considered the Blessing of the Horses to be a highlight of his life. And because he felt that so deeply it’s the experience we’ll remember most with Bob. It’s a matter of some pride that he, Peggy and I were the only extranjeros (foreigners) who braved the hordes. Gracias, Roberto for sharing those moments with us. We’ll never forget them.
When researching the Blessing of the Horses for this story my post Blessing the Carnitas from November 18, 2018 popped up. That was one week after we attended. In the post I described the “cacophony of the massive mercado that leads to the church as an assault on the senses, overwhelming you with the sounds and smells of football fields of gimcracks and food stalls and a crush of humanity that jostles you all the way to the church.” Couldn’t have said it better myself.
Somehow the Blessing of the Horses exemplified Bob’s lively spirit, openness, and availability to new experiences. It’s the day that best illuminates our too short time with him.
As to the world’s best carnitas in Dolores Hidalgo, that’s another story that must be told.
Hasta luego, chicos y chicas.











Great story and accompanying photographs, all of which describe a the world I want to live in - one where people honor and celebrate the beauty in the everyday.
What a lovely ode and tribute to Bob Dempsey, the Blessing of the Horses, and the Mexican people and places he embraced. He may not be with you in body, but he certainly still is and will continue to be in spirit. The second photograph of the lineup of horses and riders is profound in its own way, but all the photographs are worthy of many discussions. Thank you for the post, Esteban!