Morada Privada

La Morada de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Many times over the years I drove to La Morada de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe to photograph its wonders. It was my favorite photographic subject in Taos. Please note the italics. Half a dozen blocks from historic Taos Plaza the Morada, a Catholic lay chapel, commands a glorious patch of high desert with sweeping views across Taos Pueblo lands toward the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

In the Morada the Penitente Brothers or Los Hermanos weave together catholic teachings and Native American practices with severe devotionals and penitence at its core. Self flagellation was practiced till the early 20th century. Los Hermanos are highly secretive and have always had an adversarial relationship with outsiders even traditional Catholics. The brothers frequently challenged visitors and forbade access to the chapel grounds. Photographing and painting were expressly forbidden. Now all of their prohibitions are gospel according to Diocese of Santa Fe.

In one man’s opinion the Morada is a spiritual place that should be appreciated by everyone, not an insular few. Even when it was open to the public the Morada was less known and less appreciated than it should have been. Sadly, it will remain little known or forgotten since the Church has made it the sole domain of 30 angry men.

Given the Brothers’ disdain for outsiders, it wasn’t a complete surprise when on my final visit I found that a gate with a lock had been installed across Penitente Road so that public access was no longer allowed. Much to my frustration I backed out the entire length of Penitente. No mean task.

I’ve been told by folks who should know that when the Morada was sold to the diocese of Santa Fe for zero dollars public access was to be assured. But the Church does not acknowledge that agreement nor do the former owners of the Morada, the Taos Historic Museums.

Both I and fellow photographer Rupert Chambers challenged the parish priest on his decision to make the Morada a private place of worship. We struck out.

So, the admonition to ‘Get the shot while you can’ rings true once again.